Long Overdue Pics from Vietnam and Cambodia

Cruising Halong Bay on a junk.


Morning mist.


Cyclo and Citroen outside the Sofitel Metropole in Hanoi.


Sunrise at Angkor Wat.


Banteay Samre.


Preah Ko.

Stealing Buddha's Dinner

This is not a picture of me, but I have pictures from my years in Minnesota that look a lot like this.

I just finished reading Stealing Buddha's Dinner, a memoir by Bich Minh Nguyen (that's the author on the left, with her sister). Her story is a lot like mine: born in Vietnam, left on a ship out of Saigon on April 29, 1975, stopped in the Phillipines and Guam before arriving at Fort Chaffee in Arkansas. From there her family was sponsored to Grand Rapids, mine to Minneapolis. She writes about being one of the few Asian kids in her school, having white, Christian friends who thought Buddha and Asian food were weird, soaking in 80s pop culture and trying to assimilate.

If I were to write a memoir, it might turn out something like this. It was comforting to read a book that seemed familiar and real. I was tempted to send her an email saying "Hey, me too. Be my best friend?" I'll admit that I drafted an email, but didn't press send.

Have Car, Cell Phone, Skyscrapers, Will Marry

The NYT reports that South Korean men are going to Vietnam and other Asian countries in search of a suitable bride. It seems that South Korean women are more eductated and, with more options, aren't marrying their Korean counterparts. The shortage has sent the men looking elsewhere.

When I was little, my dad had a friend who had a really hard time finding a wife. He was oldish, balding, thrifty. He lived in California, but couldn't find anyone. So he would go on trips to Vietnam, Australia, Hong Kong. Later I learned that the purpose of all these trips was to find a young, Vietnamese woman who would come to America in exchange for being his wife.

If You Need to Be Reminded of How Good You've Got It, Then This Might Help

I was going to blog about Charlotte's Web, which I saw last night, until a friend sent me an LA Times article about a mother from Vietnam who came to the U.S. to search for her son. With nothing but an old address of his, she set out to find him before her visa expired or her cancer returned.

She arrived in Los Angeles with $600 in borrowed cash, a failing heart and arthritis in both knees. She spoke no English. She had not seen her firstborn son, Tuan, in the 20 years since he fled Vietnam for the United States as a teenager.

Judging from the letters he sent home, he had prospered here. He was repairing watches, living in Santa Ana. Inexplicably, four years ago, his letters had stopped coming. Now, Hai Nguyen had crossed the ocean herself, hoping to find her son before she died.

...

Chasing every lead, she took cabs to the Asian Garden Mall and Chinatown and across the San Gabriel Valley. She searched homeless shelters and alleys, parks and strip malls. All through the land of promise, to her astonishment, the concrete was littered with human shapes crouched under reeking blankets.

She went from shape to shape, slowly lifting the blankets off ragged, hollow-eyed faces that smelled of beer, off men with tangled hair and dirty hands. They cursed in words she couldn't understand and yanked their blankets back, many of them, sinking back into their covers. Some just looked at her in bewilderment. She looked into dozens of hopeless faces. There were other mothers' sons, but not hers.

...

Finally, in November, there came an improbable call from a restaurateur in San Jose, a woman named Huong Le who had seen Nguyen's story on Vietnamese-language television. She said Tuan had been living behind her restaurant for the last couple of months at the Lion Plaza shopping center on King Boulevard. He slept on the sidewalk on a patch of cardboard.

I suppose there's a happy ending to this, but I couldn't stop feeling sad. Entire article available here.

VN News

I've noticed a lot of press on Vietnam and Vietnamese-Americans lately. Here are some select tidbits:

• Vietnam is accepted into the WTO
  
• President Bush pays a visit
  
• Foreign investment increases dramatically; Intel boosts its initial investment up to $1 billion
  
• LA Weekly devotes its cover story to Vietnamese-Americans and how many of them are returning to Vietnam to do business
  
• University of California Press (Go Bears!) publishes the Journal of Vietnamese Studies, the world's first and only peer-reviewed, English-language scholarly journal devoted exclusively to Vietnamese history, politics and culture
  
• Tan Nguyen garners 38.5% of the vote in California's 47th Congressional district, despite an ignominious campaign
  
• Pam Anderson's PR rep, Tracy Nguyen, confirms that Pam is divorcing Kid Rock

Me and My Peeps

One of the things I like to do is get a mani/pedi. I got on the mani/pedi boat some time around 2001 and haven't looked back. I like getting my nails done, yes I do.

But since we moved to LA, I barely ever go. And frankly it's because almost all of the nail people in LA are Vietnamese. It pains me to say it, but that's why.

So let's explore this. When I go for a mani/pedi, I don't want to talk. This also goes for other services, like getting a haircut, massage, facial. I just want to sit and veg. In NY, most of the nail folks were Korean or Latino, so it was easy peasy. They didn't talk to me, I didn't talk to them. But whenever I get my nails done by a Vietnamese person, I always end up having a conversation, and it's always the same.

"Are you Chinese? No? Vietnamese? Really? You don't look Vietnamese ... You born here? How long have you been here? ... You have any brothers or sisters? No? Only child? Oh, your parents must really love you ... Where do you live? Are you married? Is your husband Vietnamese?"

I feel like a total bitch complaining about this. They're just trying to make conversation and they're almost always nice. I get it. But I just want to relax. Mind you, sometimes this entire conversation takes place in Vietnamese, which makes it even more less relaxing. And of course, I can't tune them out when they talk to each other because I want to hear what they're saying about other people (and possibly about me).

Digging deeper, I don't think this is solely about me wanting to veg out. On some level, I think Vietnamese people (my family excluded) may make me uncomfortable. Proud Vietnamese that I am, when it comes to dealing with them, one on one, I feel out of my element. The language is an issue, no doubt. My Vietnamese is pretty good considering I've been here almost my whole life, but speaking to strangers makes me nervous. Maybe it's a fear of being judged or something. Maybe it's the thick American accent that I'm sure I have. It all makes me feel very Americanized, and I don't like feeling that way.

All Nguyens Not the Same

I'm none too happy about the recent news out of Orange County. I'm referring to some idiot named Tan Nguyen. Nguyen is the most common Vietnamese last name and this guy is mucking it up for us good hearted Vietnamese folks.

In a nutshell-- Tan Nguyen is a naturalized citizen (born in Vietnam in 1973, arrived in the U.S. as a youngster) running for Congress. He is running as a Republican against Democratic incumbent Loretta Sanchez in one of O.C.'s most racially diverse districts (the Santa Ana-Garden Grove area). Nguyen is a relative newcomer to politics. In 2004, he ran as a Democrat against Republican incumbent Dana Rohrabacher for the neighboring Huntington Beach-Fountain Valley seat. I don't know what the requirements are for running for Congress, but it's odd that within two years, someone would switch parties and districts. I guess he must want to be a Congressman real bad.

So bad that Nguyen is now being investigated for allegedly sending out thousands of letters to Latinos warning "You are advised that if your residence in this country is illegal or you are an immigrant, voting in a federal election is a crime that could result in jail time."

Granted, Nguyen is still being investigated and he's not guilty of anything at this point. But people in his office have been connected to the letters and it's just a matter of whether there is enough evidence to show that Nguyen knew and approved of them. His office and home have been searched, computers and files seized. The GOP, which never threw much might behind Nguyen in the first place, has disowned him and asked him to withdraw. As of yesterday, Nguyen was still in the race and maintaining his innocence.

This bothers me on so many levels. Where to start. Voter intimidation of any kind is plain sick. And the substance of the letter is just wrong, wrong and wrong. As a naturalized American citizen, Nguyen knows that immigrants can vote in certain cases. Then there is the irony that all this is happening in Sanchez's district. It was just ten years ago that Sanchez unseated Robert Dornan, a longtime Republican incumbent. It was ugly. Dornan created a huge fuss, threatening a recount and alleging this and that. Now it's come full circle again, but this time it's ugliness of a different color. The last thing we need is for Vietnamese-Hispanic race relations to go sour. Thanks a lot, sh*thead.

Nguon v. Wolf

A storm has been brewing at Santiago High School in Garden Grove, CA. Charlene Nguon (right), an openly gay student, has sued her school for discrimination. She is of Thai, Cambodian and Vietnamese descent. According to her complaint, she was suspended for being affectionate with her girlfriend, a fellow student, and the principal outed her to her parents, among other things. Charlene is being represented by the ACLU and her case has been covered on MTV and CNN.

Street Name Controversy

The Westminster City Council voted unanimously to table a proposal to change Moran Street (named after one of the town's pioneers) to Yen Do Street. Yen Do, a journalist who fled South Vietnam after the end of the war, started Người Việt Daily News in the late 70s from his Westminster garage. Người Việt has since grown exponentially in circulation as the Westminster area has become home to the U.S.'s largest Vietnamese community.

Although most agree that it's time for Westminster to have a Vietnamese street name or two, it appears that the Yen Do proposal was sidelined because of professional and personal objections. According to the LA Times,"Several people from Vietnamese news outlets that, like Do's newspaper, are headquartered along Moran Street denounced the prospect of a rival's name becoming part of their address." Another view: "He's a very successful businessman, but he's not a hero at all," said Toan Thai, a member of the Vietnamese Community of Southern California, a nonprofit service group. "He has never made any contributions to the community." Ouch.

Chúc Mừng Năm Mới

Tết is just around the corner. Vietnamese families will be gathering together this weekend to celebrate the New Year, pay their respects to ancestors, eat a lot of food and have a good time. It is hands down the biggest and most important celebration in Vietnam.

Mr. Octopus and I will be heading down to O.C. on Saturday to see my parents, aunts, uncles, cousins and cousins' kids. We'll be arriving a little early to pay respects to my grandparents and other relatives on the family altar.

Vietnamese try to pay all their debts before the New Year. They try to make amends with people. They clean the house and decorate with flowers. They wear new clothes. Children get lucky money in red and gold bags (above). It's a new start, and supposedly the first couple weeks of the New Year are indicative of the rest of the year.

Food is a huge part of Tết, and there are certain dishes that are symbolic of Tết, most notably bánh chưng (right), which is a square cake of sticky rice filled with meat (usually pork) and beans, all wrapped in banana leaves.

Here's hoping that the Year of the Dog is a lucky one for you.

Chúc mừng năm mới
Happy New Year!!!

p.s. If you're going to say "Happy Chinese New Year" to someone, it's best to be sure they're Chinese.

The Chinese Zodiac: Die Schlange

This will be the last installment of the Chinese Zodiac series. I know, I know, I've only covered four of the twelve animals, but ... too bad!

1941, 1953, 1965, 1977, 1989
About the snake:

This Sign is an interesting mix of gregariousness paired with introversion, intuitive reasoning paired with savvy business skills. Snakes are considered to be lucky with money and will generally have more than enough to live life to the fullest, regardless of how important it considers money to be; this may be due to the fact that Snakes tend to be rather tight with cash. They're not stingy, they're simply more mentally than physically active. Snakes tend to hang back a bit in order to analyze a situation before jumping into it. Their charming, seductive quality actually belies a rather retiring nature; this Sign is perfectly happy to spend the whole day curled up with a good book and, thus, can be mislabeled as being lazy.

Slightly dangerous and disarmingly smart, the Snake's philosophical and intuitive mind generally supersedes logic in favor of feelings and instinct. Snakes will rely on their own gut reactions and intuitions before turning to others for suggestions. This makes this Sign a great hand in any business venture, possessing the caution and smarts needed to get ahead.

Snakes are hard workers (when they see good reason to be!) and are possessed of a keen intelligence. Snakes have incredible follow-through, once they get going, and they expect the same from others. Thus, their coworkers and employees had best stay on their toes, lest they anger the Snake and suffer its poisonous bite!

From here. Click here for more on the snake.

The best match for the snake is the rooster or the ox. Famous snakes include Muhammad Ali, Bjork, Tony Blair, Dick Cheney, Bob Dylan, Gandhi, Stephen Hawking, James Joyce, Mao Tse-tung, Picasso, Oprah Winfrey and P. G. Wodehouse.

The Chinese Zodiac: Dragón

Growing up, my relatives and family friends were always asking me in which year I was born. I would tell them and inevitably they would say, "Ahhh, tiger...hmm." It was a very ambiguous reaction. On the other hand, from the little I knew, I sensed that that being born in the year of the dragon was definitely a positive thing. In poking around for this entry, I found out that, yes, being a dragon is desirable.

1952, 1964, 1976, 1988, 2000
In many parts of Asia people actually try to have children in the year of the dragon. In China, the dragon is considered a powerful but benevolent creature. It is not the fire-breathing menace to society as in Western society. In the East, the dragon is almost like a God, hence the incorporation of the dragon in the Lunar New Year's celebrations. In fact, I caught a part of "Quest for Dragons" on the History Channel and learned that the Chinese and Native Americans have surprisingly similar views on dragons-- both cultures respect the dragon and see it as a god of rain and the bringer of prosperity. The dragon occupies a very important postion in Chinese (and Asian) mythology. It shows up in history, architecture, art, literature, religion and music. In fact, according to Vietnamese mythology, the Vietnamese are descendants of the dragon.

The earliest traditions of the Vietnamese people...are associated with the Hung kings who ruled the kingdom of Van-lang. The Hung kings claimed descent from Lac Long Quan, "Lac Dragon Lord," a hero who came to the Hong River plain in what is now northern Vietnam from his home in the sea; he subdued all evil demons in the land and civilized the people, teaching them to cultivate rice and to wear clothes. Lac Long Quan returned to the sea after instructing the people to call on him if they were ever in distress. Eventually, a monarch from the north, China, entered the land and, finding it without a king, claimed it for himself. When the people cried out to Lac Long Quan for deliverance from this alien ruler, he heard them and came back from the sea; he kidnapped Au Co, the wife of the intruder, and took her to the top of Mount Tan-vien, which overlooks the Hong River as it enters the plains. Failing to retrieve his wife, the northern king departed in despair. Au Co eventually gave birth to the first of the Hung kings, and Lac Long Quan returned to his home in the sea after again promising to return if needed. Lac Long Quan, a prince of the sea, and Au Co, a princess of the mountains, are regarded by the Vietnamese as the progenitors of their race."

From Keith Weller Taylor's The Birth of Vietnam.
If that ain't enough, how's this personal characteristics:

The Dragon is one of the most powerful and lucky Signs of the Chinese Zodiac. Its warm heart makes the Dragon's brash, fiery energy far more palatable. This is a giving, intelligent and tenacious Sign that knows exactly what it wants and is determined to get it. Dragons possess a certain natural, charming charisma that ensures they can always influence their peers and often find themselves the center of attention in social situations. This Sign is truly blessed, too; Dragons are considered to be very lucky in love! The Dragon's friends are always keen to hear what this firebrand has to say and when it comes to dispensing advice, the Dragon has the floor.

Its ego can get in the Dragon's way, but even so, this larger-than-life creature has a knack for initiating projects and keeping the troops motivated. According to Dragons, it's their natural born right to lead the way -- because who else could do it so surely and so well? As lucky as they are, Dragons have a good chance of achieving considerable material wealth during their lifetimes, although it isn't mere money that's this Sign's main motivation. Power is what the Dragon wants and truly believes it deserves. Dragons are quite the opportunists, forever searching for ways in which to consolidate their considerable power. Contrary to all this strength and fire, a weakened Dragon is a sad sack, a creature that refuses to take defeat with even a modicum of grace.

The role of leader is the only one the Dragon wants, the better from which to give orders and be king of the hill. They make solid leaders, too, knowing instinctively what needs to be done to stay on top. Crossing the Dragon is never a good idea -- this beast can singe! A valuable life lesson for this clever creature would be to absorb the principles of flexibility, compassion and tolerance. Being high and mighty can serve to inspire others, but it also keeps Dragons from living their lives to the fullest. If Dragons can learn to balance their quest for success with an appreciation for the little things, their life will be more than worthwhile.

From here.

Supposedly, dragons are compatible with rats and monkeys, but should avoid oxen, rabbits, dogs and other dragons. You dragons out there are in very good company (surprise surprise). Famous dragons include Joan of Arc, Julius Caesar, Abe Lincoln, Martin Luther King, Jr., Charles Darwin, Pelé, Ronaldo, Bruce Lee, Sandra Bullock, Keanu Reeves, Reese Witherspoon and a gaggle of Lord of the Rings folks (Dominic Monaghan, Orlando Bloom and Andy Serkis).

The Chinese Zodiac: The Goat (or Sheep)

1943, 1955, 1967, 1979, 1991

People born in the Year of the Sheep supposedly are elegant and highly accomplished in the arts. They seem to be, at first glance, better off than those born in the zodiac's other years. But Sheep year people are often shy, pessimistic, and puzzled about life. They are usually deeply religious, yet timid by nature. Sometimes clumsy in speech, they are always passionate about what they do and what they believe in. Sheep people never have to worry about having the best in life for their abilities make money for them, and they are able to enjoy the creature comforts that they like.

Sheep people are wise, gentle, and compassionate. They are considered compatible with Rabbits, Pigs, and Horses. A Sheep will prefer to forget grievances rather than brood over them and will keep any resentment tightly under control in order maintain peace and prosperity among the group. Sheep live in the present, which they attempt to enjoy to the best of their abilities. Thanks to their sensitive natures, Sheep are the most creative and expressive of all the Signs in the Chinese Zodiac.

From Wiki.

Famous sheep include Michelangelo, Mel Gibson, Zhang Ziyi, Chow Yun Fat, Kurt Cobain, John Kerry, Joni Mitchell, Marcel Proust, Bill Gates and Steve Jobs.

The Chinese Zodiac: Le Tigre

The internet has all sorts of sites devoted to the animals in the Chinese zodiac, some sillier than others. I've looked at a few of them and there is a commonality in their descriptions of the tiger. Generally, tigers are intelligent, passionate, impetuous. They are often magnetic, daring and stubborn-- characterics that make them likely to be leaders. At the same time, they like their solitude and are short-tempered and suspicious.

1950, 1962, 1974, 1986, 1998
Here is a more detailed description:

Tigers may not be the king of the jungle, but these striped cats are no softies! Magnetic and self-possessed, Tigers are born leaders. They have an air of authority that prompts others to fall in line, which is exactly how they like it. Although they are magnetically charming and fun to be around, Tigers like to go it alone sometimes too. A Tiger's main interest is in following its ambitions -- and maintaining control.

Tigers are courageous beyond compare and generally come out ahead in battle, be it in the boardroom or the bedroom. Seduction is one area where the Tiger is definitely king! Noble and warm-hearted, Tigers have a natural, raw appeal that's extremely attractive to other Signs. They're not just about attraction, though; ever on the side of right, Tigers will fight the good fight to the bitter end if the cause is worthy. Opponents are wise to fear this feline.

A bit of caution is a good thing around Tigers, since they can pounce without warning. They experience mood swings and often feel things more intensely than others, the latter quality being both good and bad. They can react poorly under stress and are prone to emotional outbursts. This Sign's bristling sensitivity can send friend and foe running for cover.

A lesson that Tigers would be well-served to learn is "moderation in all things." Once these cats can find their center and direct their considerable energies toward worthwhile endeavors (as opposed to racing through life), they will accomplish much.

From this astrology site.

Tigers are most compatible with dogs and horses and least compatible with oxen and sheep. A tiger/tiger pairing is difficult and generally not recommended.

Famous tigers include Stevie Wonder, Leonardo DiCaprio, Steve Irwin (the crocodile guy), Stephen Chow (the Kung Fu Hustle guy), Marilyn Monroe, Karl Marx, Oscar Wilde, Mel Brooks and crazy Tom Cruise.

The Chinese Zodiac

Although it's only January 6th, it's almost time for the new year-- Chinese New Year, that is. Chinese New Year (aka Lunar New Year) begins on January 29th this year. It is the most important holiday in China, indeed in much of Asia. Vietnamese, Koreans, Mongolians and other cultures influenced by the Chinese celebrate this day. The Lunar New Year, or Tết as it is called in Vietnam, is hands down the biggest holiday in Vietnam. Vietnamese typically take an entire month off to spend time with family and prepare for the celebrations. I'll devote another entry to Tết later in the month, but I want to look into a most interesting aspect of the New Year's phenomenon: the Chinese Zodiac.

There are 12 animals in the Chinese Zodiac, each animal representing a year in a 12-year cycle. The 12 animal signs are, in order: the rat, ox, tiger, rabbit (cat in Vietnam), dragon, snake, horse, sheep (or goat), monkey, rooster, dog and pig (wild boar in Japan). But the animal stuff doesn't end there. Each month has an animal attributed to it (e.g., January being the rat, December being the pig), as well as each hour of the day (e.g., 11pm-1am being the rat, 9pm to 11pm being the pig (Beijing local time)). If that weren't complicated enough, Chinese astrology draws on the position/interaction of natural phemonena. Natural phenomena are grouped into five elements: Water, Wood, Fire, Metal (Gold) and Earth. Taken together, these factors make for 8,640 combinations (5 elements, 12 animals, 12 months, 12 times of day). According to Chinese astrology, it is the position of these five elements and the zodiac sign at the time of your birth that determines your destiny.

All this explains why when you go to a Chinese fortune teller, all you need to him is your date and time of birth. I, for one, can tell you that Chinese fortune tellers can be uncanny. My dad gave my date and time of birth to a very good fortune teller a few years back and, so far, his reading has been spot on. My dad, a real skeptic, had a reading back in the early 70s, which has proved to be too true to be believed.

We are now nearing the end of the year of the rooster. January 29th will mark the beginning of the year of the dog. I'd like to profile each of the 12 animals before the Lunar New Year, but that's pretty ambitious and I may lose interest after a couple animals. Instead, I'll start with the tiger, which happens to be my birth year. To find out your year, click here.

Soccer Phenom Goes Dutch

A good friend of mine and avid soccer fan, Mr. Ivanomartin, alerted me to Lee Nguyen, a Vietnamese-American soccer phenom who is going pro. Born in 1986, Lee is a freshman at Indiana University and a forward/midfielder on their soccer team. He had offers from MLS coming out of high school, but decided to go to college. Now it looks likely that he'll join the Dutch club PSV Eindhoven.

Lee's dad is a soccer fanatic and began teaching Lee how to play when he was a wee tot. As Lee got older, his mom wanted him to concentrate more on his studies, but she eventually gave in to her husband's (and her son's) passion. For more about Lee, click here.

I don't know much about soccer, but the one thing I like about it is that people of most shapes and sizes can play and be good at it. That's probably why it's one of the few (only?) truly international sports. Yay for Lee! He now joins Dat Nguyen (Dallas Cowboys' linebacker) in that very select group of Vietnamese-American professional athletes.

Little Saigon, U.S.A.

There are many Little Saigons in the U.S., but the one I'm talking about is in Orange County, California. Located about 45 minutes south of LA, Little Saigon O.C. is centered around Bolsa Avenue in Westminster, a city where, according to the 2000 census, Vietnamese Americans constituted 30.7% of the population.

Little Saigon, or Bolsa (as it is more commonly called), is probably a lot like a suburban Chinatown that you've been to. There are big Asian supermarkets and lots of jewelry, fabric, music and electronics stores and travel agencies. There are Vietnamese cafes and restaurants everywhere you look, as well as a healthy dose of pharmacies, dentists, lawyers and doctors.

Bolsa is about an hour north of Camp Pendleton (near San Diego), which is a marine base that served as a point of entry for many Vietnamese refugees in 1975. Camp Pendleton was one of three bases that housed refugees as part of the U.S. resettlement program (the others were in Arkansas and Florida). The refugee camps were intentionally far apart to prevent newly arrived Vietnamese from clustering together in "ghettos."

By the mid-eighties, Bolsa Avenue was already bumping as a Little Saigon, although a much smaller version of what it is today. As the community continues to grow and thrive, Vietnamese Americans are becoming more politically active. A few hold elected office in Westminster and neighboring Garden Grove and John McCain and the Arnold have paid visits to the area (the latter most recently this Fall during his special election campaign).

Of course, Little Saigon is not without its intrigue. Recently, a mysterious counterfeit sriracha sauce (the red chili sauce in the rooster bottle that is found in all Vietnamese refrigerators) has appeared on the shelves of the Asian markets. The packaging has been copied to a tee, although aficionados know a fake when they taste one (my dad once told my mom that she bought the "wrong" bottle). Apparently, the perpetrators may have been caught because my dad has not tasted a fake in a while.